Again nothing much exciting happened midweek but this weekend more than made up for it as I managed to get to Arkansas climbing again. A group of 9 of us headed down on Friday evening. The trip down to Horseshoe Canyon went quickly although I doubt the driver of the car I was in would describe it as a good trip thanks to the speeding fine he picked up on the way. This time we were even there early enough to have a couple of drinks before heading to bed which was a very definite win.
Next day we all headed to North Forty. This was one of the more popular areas and also had quite a lot of easier routes. On this trip, unlike last time, there were quite a lot of people who hadn’t climbed there so it was a logical place to go. A couple of 5.6 top-ropes were put up, one by me, to give the people new to outdoor climbing something to try. I also led the other 5.6 when I cleaned it once we were done and this turned out to be my 2000th route outdoors since I started recording them which was a nice milestone. I then crept of to do a couple of trad routes, both apparently 5.7 although the first one was much easier than the second.
Next we all headed to an area of very new climbs which I think we’re only a few weeks old. I led a couple of 5.8s before deciding to have a go at a overhung 5.10b. This had been left with the fist clip clipped and quickdraws in after one of the others couldn’t do. The other two that could have done it had already done it so I thought I might as well give it a go before making one of them do it again although I wasn’t really expecting to get it. I then rather surprised myself by getting it clean. Having the quickdraws in helped as it was rather pumpy but I was still really chuffed to get it and still will be even if it is later downgraded as it really didn’t suit my style. I then top-roped a 5.10a and 5.10b, clean again, as by this time I was getting a little pumped and didn’t fancy leading them.
We all then headed to the river for swimming, cooking and drinking. This was made a little more exciting by uncertainty over whether one car would make it down to the river and back up so nine of us piled into the car for the last bit. Somehow we all survived and a good time was had. We then headed back for some more drinking before I found myself in bed at 10:30. Hadn’t realised it was that early but it had been a long, and incredibly good, day and I needed my bed.
Everyone was a little slow getting up the next day but we eventually got going and we headed to an area I’d been to last time. Here we found a large group hogging the three 5.6s that were there and they were unwilling to give even one of them up despite knowing we wanted to do one. How anti-social! Didn’t effect me that much but certainly mucked up other’s plans. I had my eye on leading a 5.8 on trad. This has now been bolted and I’d lead it as a sports route last time but as it was originally a trad line I fancied seeing how it would go. The gear on it was a bit awkward at times but it went without any real problems.
After moving to a different location and I led a 5.9+ although not exactly in good style. It was slightly overhanging and a combination of tired arms and big moves, where you couldn’t really see what the hold you were aiming for was going to be like, left me lacking confidence, although I did manage to finish it. I then did a new line (probably about 5.9) and again had to take a rest before the crux final move due to tired arms.
All in all a really good weekend that left me wanting to do more climbing outside soon. Photos – most not taken by me – are in the usual place here. Things only got better on Monday when I realised I’d lost more weight and that, for the first time in about a year, I was not technically overweight. Have now lost 21 pounds since Christmas and 9 since I got back from the UK which I’m really pleased about. I’m now heading off to Yellowstone and Grand Teton for two weeks and hopefully things will continue to go well and I’ll have a great time.